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Morocco: Tangier's Rough and Tumble Charm

Tangier is a large city and may be the point of entry for many visitors to Morocco hoping to explore the Northwest coast of Morocco. Its reputation as a capital of vice hangs on from the past, but it's a bustling and often jolting start to your trip to Morocco. If you are a woman traveling alone, Tangier is both a good place to start due to its easy exit to Spain if you become uncomfortable, but a challenging first city to navigate.

Stay: I stayed at a gorgeous hostel called Al-Andalusí Hostel in the "heart of the medina". It's luxurious for $16/ night, with plush seating areas, a large terrace perfect for overlooking the city and hanging out with other travelers, beautiful Moroccan tiles and ornate ceilings in every room, and a large free breakfast every morning. The medina is a complex maze, so make sure you note a few landmarks on your way in or you'll never learn your way back to the hostel.

Do: The good thing about staying there is that you are really close to the market boasting piles of olives, freshly baked round bread called khobz, and some meat and fish vendors. Wander your way through the stalls and grab some food to bring back to cook in the hostel kitchen. Keep in mind when shopping in Tangier that a lot of very Moroccan handicrafts sold here aren't made here, and in fact, are much cheaper in the cities they're made in. So if you plan to head to Fez, for example, get your leather products there, and even see the leather tannieries they're made in.

See: Tangier has a few sights worth seeing like the kasbah or the American Legation Museum (thanks for the friendship, Morocco!), and but I recommend using this city as a place to hang out for a day or two while you get your bearings, then head on to Asilah, a small, picturesque seaside town.

Eat: Just because you're traveling on the cheap doesn't mean you can't have a little luxury. Head to Elminzah Hotel for a long luxurious breakfast or even just some Moroccan mint tea. Treat yourself! This hotel is where all kinds of famous people have stayed, so try to dust off your clothes a little before you head in.

Tourist tip: Be aware that if someone asks you if you are lost and offers to show you the way, they'll expect a tip for their help...even little kids. Prepare to be lost here in the medina, there's no way you won't get lost a few times, but just relax, try not to look like you are lost, and enjoy that journey.

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