Chefchaouen: The Blue City
Chefchaouen is a beautiful city nestled in the Rif mountaints and drenched in varying hues of pale blue, which immediately soothes the soul. It has a relaxed vibe (most likely due to its status as a large hash farming area) that makes it easy to while away a few days here.
Getting here: If you're starting in Tangier, take the CTM bus to Chefchaouen. Of course this involves taking a grand taxi to the bus station, buying a ticket at the CTM counter, and going to the bus at the right time. I expected buying a ticket to be more of a hassle (my Spanish and French and Arabic are all lacking), but it was quite simple. Note that you have assigned seats. Tip! The bus ride is going to be winding through mountains, it really is going to be necessary to take a Dramamine about an hour into your bus ride if you get car sick (or at least it is for Ohio girls who live in a very flat terrain).
Stay: I stayed at an amazingly gorgeous hostel called Dar Zman. It's really more of a riad than a hostel, it's superbly luxurious for $25/ night, with plush seating areas, a large terrace overlooking dramatic mountain scenery, and a royal breakfast served to you when you wake up. Beautiful Moroccan tiles and plush, comfortable beds. Honestly, I wouldn't waste your time looking anywhere else: friends who I met in Tangier ended up immediately switching to this hostel after visiting me here. Bouchra is one of the girls who works there, make sure to tell her hello from me!
Do: I'm probably the only person that would recommend doing this, but it's a truly cultural experience that you won't soon forget: go the local hammam. It's near the main square by the mosque. What you'll need to bring is flip-flops, a towel, and some soap. It's pretty cheap and you can pay a little more to get a massage. Not for the easily embarrassed, you'll get completely naked and then get scrubbed down with a pine soap and exfoliated to within an inch of your life. I'm not going to say it's the cleanest and most relaxing place ever, but it's definitely interesting and unique. Listen to Lizz Winstead's story, The 25 Cent Spa on The Moth to get a better idea of what to expect :)
Shopping in Chefchaouen is easier and more relaxed than in bigger cities like Fez and Tangier, you'll get hassled less and have more time to peruse. I managed to get some great deals on luggage, argan oil, spices, some famous Chefchaouen wool-knits, and antique Berber jewelry. Keep in mind that you'll be haggling, it's best to decide on how much you're willing to pay for the item before you even start haggling.
Other great sites are hikes through the mountain dramatic mountains. For me, hiking to the Spanish mosque was enough. You can start on that hike at ab al Ansar, the eastern gate. This is nice because you'll end up walking by the local women doing their laundry and then up the trail to the mosque for a nice view.
See: Check out the Kasbah in the main square. You can go in and walk around the lush garden on the inside, as well as go up into some towers that have informational signs posted in French and Spanish. Ask people where the waterfall is or keep walking out of the main square and you'll find a neat part of Chefchaouen where local ladies come to wash laundry, wearing their colorful traditional outfits that bring Mexican sombreros to mind.
Eat: Yes, it's a bit touristy and "Arabian Nights" seeming, but do yourself a favor and head to La Lampe Magique Aladdin Restaurant, if not for the food, then for the view. Head to the top floor and get one of the best views in Chefchaouen, which is especially wonderful if you are up there during the call to prayer. No reason to skimp on luxury because you are on a budget, get a three course meal for about $8.
Tourist tip: Be aware that people will constantly be trying to sell you drugs in this town. An easy "La, shukran" is the way to say "no thanks" and they'll generally stop pushing after that. I myself did not visit the marijuana plantations, but it's easy enough if you ask around.
